Last weekend, I got a little more work done on the Stormtrooper blaster. Even though the barrel holes on the bottom won’t really show, I decided to drill them out.
To make the folding stock more accurate, I need to replace the cast resin “rod” with a real aluminum one. I chucked a router bit into the drill press and moved the stock back and forth, hollowing out the resin frame.
Here is a finished version compared to where I started.
The butt plate on the folding stock has a recess where, on the real gun, you would see light through it.
Using a drill bit, I was able to carve out that area.
The kit was built to just glue the trigger into a recess on the pistol grip. It goes against my grain to build a gun replica that you can AT LEAST pull the trigger. I drilled out the recess to allow the trigger to be inserted.
Once in the proper position, I drilled a pivot hole for the trigger though the pistol grip frame.
A nail (trimmed to be flush) will allow it to rotate.
A spring from a ballpoint pen supplies the resistance.
To keep the trigger from moving too far forward, I glued in some scrap resin.
The end cap is held in place on the barrel with tension from the bolt spring. To keep the spring centered, I cut down some resin pour spouts and glued them to the inside.
The spring in place.
In keeping in the spirit of perfect nerdery, the spring was stretched so that the correct amount of loops would show through the bolt slot. Don’t judge me!
Personally, I was just going to glue down the selector switch but my friend Paul (who is building his at the same time with me) really wanted to figure a way to make it at least movable, if not click at each setting.
Here’s my solution:
I drilled a 3/8″ hole into the frame which is a tiny bit bigger than the switch base. I cut a styrene disk to fit into that hole.
An 1/8″ aluminum rod is glued into the switch and the styrene disk is slid onto it (no glue!)
A second disk was cut to match the first but a 90º section was cut out of it. This disk was glued under the first (but not the rod.)
I cut a tiny nail to the radius of the styrene disk.
Stay with me now…
I drilled a hole for the nail into the aluminum rod below the first disk so that the nail would sit in the open pie slice of the second. Once the disks were glued back into the frame, the nail would restrict the switch’s movement. I cut off the rounded heads of small brass nails and glued them at 30º intervals. Now the pin would click between them to simulate Fire/stun/safe settings. *pats self on back*
Some pre-painting and then the assembly can be glued in. The seam will be barely noticeable but I’ll probably get rid of it.
MAYBE more progress next week. I’m dealing with a broken a/c unit at the house and it’s ONLY 105ºF this week. Bleh.