Here’s an update on everything I’ve been working on:
I finally took the plunge and bought my first 3D printer. This is a FlashForge Finder which I got for $500. There are cheaper printers out there, but from everything I read, you have to do a lot of fiddling and modification to get good prints. I was looking for something that worked out of the box and gave me decent enough prints so I could test my models before ordering from Shapeways.
I was very pleased to find that the prints from the Finder are VERY CLOSE to what Shapeways was producing. A couple of coats of Filler Primer, some light sanding and I’m ready to mold or assemble!
This Yoda (about 2″ tall) is one of the first test models I printed. There was no cleanup done do him, Just painted so I could see detail.
The Mars Curiosity rover model I downloaded from NASA’s site. Great detail and articulated!
It’s a magical toy-making machine, and I couldn’t be happier!
With my new printer, I could complete the rest of the parts. Here are the legs right out of the printer.
The head and the body from my printer.
A test fit of all the parts. I still have a little cleanup to do before molding.
I wanted to mold all of Carl’s body parts in a brown that matches his skin. With small quantities of resin, even one drop makes a big difference.
Finally, I arrived at a color I liked! (FYI, that 3 drops of brown, yellow and red, 5 drops of white in 40 grams of SmoothCast 300 resin)
The first test pulls from the molds.
Look at Carl’s little knife!!
I used this bit in my Dremel to carve out the spaces for the joint tabs.
I’ll still be ordering the joint pins from Shapeways as they’ll be more accurate and stronger than what I could print (or pour).
Assembly begins on the first copy.
The wrist joint.
This copy will be sent to the tailor for sizing the pants and vest. The mis-colored parts were poured with extra resin from another kit.
One problem I found when pouring the parts was that I was getting air bubble trapped around the joint tabs. Also, I didn’t make them long enough for a secure working joint.
To fix this, I added pins to the joint and I will just drill out the corresponding spot on all the parts.
To test the theory, I printed a pin.
I made the shaft longer so the resin part of the joint would be stronger.
The test pin that makes the elbow joint.
It works! Yay!
MR POTATO HEAD
After molding the replacement eyes, I found a problem with them. The rim caused by the recessed back made for a weaker pin hole for the eyebrows (right). The pin on the eyebrow was also too thin and risked snapping off. I modeled a new master (left) of all the parts which I then printed.
Here are all the new parts with a coat of primer. The old eyebrow is in black for comparison.
Oberyn Martell’s Spear
I’ve been collecting Dark Horse’s series of Game of Thrones plastic statues. I know Prince Oberyn didn’t have his awesome spear before he fought The Mountain but I don’t care! I would make one!
I sent off to Shapeways (pre-printer) for this print in their acrylic detailed material The spear is only 9.5″ long.
Detail of the spear head. Modeling those snakes was not fun.
To make the tassels, I bought a brown lens cleaning cloth and cut a small section into fringe.
The cloth glued into place.
LIFE-SIZE ICE CREAM KITTY
One of my favorite characters in the new animated Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles is the fusion of a cat and a tub of ice cream…Ice Cream Kitty!! He doesn’t get to do much aside from sitting in the freezer but he’s awesome!
I modeled him to sit on a shelf or inside a plastic bowl. I haven’t decided which way to go yet.
Here’s his head which I just finished printing.
RESIN CUP GAUGE
For my projects, I pour small amounts of resin. I’ve been getting by with marking the cups with a sharpie after weighing but you can’t re-use the cup the next day.
I finally sat down and measured the common increments that I use in disposable cups. Print the linked file on clear Avery sheets, trim out, apply to each cup and you have a easy way of measuring your resin (as long as it’s equal amounts by volume, that is.)
Here’s how it works:
I use the small clear 9 oz. cups from Wal-Mart.
Please the bottom line of the gauge at the base indent.
Don’t forget to label which cup gets which part!
Hopefully updates will be coming much sooner but no promises!